Paris Fashion Week Men features eight new names on official show calendar
Next January's Paris Fashion Week Men will focus more than ever on emerging labels. The French capital may have lost JW Anderson and 1017 Alyx 9SM, which have chosen to show in Milan for the coming season, but its January programme is no less rich and promising, according to the provisional calendar released by the French men’s fashion association. An extensively rejuvenated calendar that features, alongside major names like Dior and Hermès, no fewer than eight new labels on the official show programme (Amiri, Bianca Saunders, Doublet, EgonLab, Kidsuper, Rains, VTMNTS and Bluemarble) and 10 emerging labels on the presentation programme.
The Paris fashion week scheduled on January 18-23 is dedicated to the menswear collections for the Fall/Winter 2022-23, and will comprise both digital events and physical shows, “in compliance with the measures adopted by the government and the health authorities,” as indicated in a press release by the French Fashion and Haute couture Federation (FHCM), which stated that the definitive calendar will be revealed in early January. Paris Fashion Week Men will feature 77 labels, of which 42 are on the show calendar. Additionally, Paco Rabanne and Alaïa will unveil their women’s ready-to-wear collections on Sunday January 23, respectively at 4.30 pm and 8.30 pm CET.
Notably, Louis Vuitton has scheduled a show on Thursday January 20 at 6.30 pm CET. The LVMH group's leading label has recently lost the creative director of menswear, Virgil Abloh, who passed away on November 28 after a battle with cancer. It is rumoured that the collection that will be unveiled next January might be the final fruit of Abloh’s work.
The spotlights during Paris Fashion Week Men will undoubtedly be trained on the eight labels that will be making their maiden appearance on the Parisian runways. None of these labels is an unknown quantity, since some have presented their collections in Paris in previous seasons, while others have caught the eye at the most prestigious young fashion designer competitions. This is the case of British designer Bianca Saunders, 28, winner of the ANDAM Prize 2021 and a finalist at the LVMH Prize this same year, and of US artist/designer Colm Dillane, founder of arty label Kidsuper, who was awarded the Karl Lagerfeld/Special Jury Mention prize on the same occasion. Both Saunders and Dillane founded their labels in 2018.
Kidsuper premièred in Paris during the digital fashion weeks of July 2020 and June 2021, and will show for the first time in physical format in January. The same applies to Japanese designer Masayuki Ino, winner of the LVMH Prize in 2018. He set up his own label, Doublet, in 2012, and his creations are steeped in the same playful mood as Dillane’s. In addition to his digital Parisian presence, Ino was also on the fashion week’s physical presentation programme in June 2018.
In January the same year, Amiri staged its first, remarkable presentation for the Parisian fashion public. The label, distinctive for its glamorous rocker style, has since boosted its visibility, attracting Italian group OTB, which acquired a minority stake in it, and recently opening a store in New York. Mike Amiri, 44, named menswear designer of 2021 by the Council of Fashion Designers of America, switched to fashion and to designing jeans after initially studying law. He then worked for pop music bands, for which he created special stage costumes, until he launched his own high-end denim label Amiri in Los Angeles in 2014.
Another directional, international name that is very much on the rise is Rains, the Danish brand of Scandi-style rain gear founded in Aarhus in 2012 by Daniel Brix Hesselager, Philip Lotko Wormslev and Kenneth Davids. Rains is renowned for its chic, lightweight urban apparel made with high-tech materials, and is a real hit on the French market.
Two French labels, EgonLab and Bluemarble, will also be making their official debut on the Parisian runways in January. They have both been featured at the Sphère showroom, a project operated by FHCM with the backing of Defi (France’s Committee for the Development and Promotion of Apparel). EgonLab was founded in January 2019 by Florentin Glémarec and Kévin Nompeix, and its streetwear-influenced men’s wardrobe is designed to appeal to women too. This year, EgonLab bagged the Pierre Bergé prize for creativity at the ANDAM designer competition, and is one of the finalists for the Woolmark Prize.
Bluemarble too has a strong streetwear vibe, and is led by designer Anthony Alvarez, who is half French, half Filipino, and was born in the USA. Bluemarble, as the label is known since 2019, was first launched under the name OneCulture in 2017, each of its collections inspired by a different place or city.
Last but not least among the Paris fashion week's eight new names is VTMNTS, the brand-new apparel and accessories line characterised by “understated, sustainable luxury” launched in summer by Guram Gvasalia, who is now in charge of style at Vetements, the uber-popular luxe streetwear label he founded in 2014 with his brother Demna. While Vetements’s Fall/Winter 2022-23 collection was unveiled with a video in November, as anticipated by FashionNetwork.com, VTMNTS will instead stage a physical show in January.
The Parisian presentation calendar also features a long list of new entries: Airei (launched in 2020) and Winnie (2018) from the USA, Liberal Youth Ministry (2016) from Mexico, Lukhanyo Mdingi (2015) from South Africa, Namesake (2020) from Taiwan, Solid Homme (1988) and Songzio (1993) from South Korea, Youths in Balaclava (2014) from Singapore, and French brands Steven Passaro (2019) and Vuarnet (1957), the latter an eyewear brand presenting its new apparel line designed by Boramy Viguier.
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