Weinsanto opens Paris Fashion Week
“Out of the way,” yelled the penultimate model in the Weinsanto show. And, the audience duly leaned back as she sailed past in the most gigantic shoulders, climaxing the opening show in Paris Fashion Week.
A velour matelassé bolero cut at least two-meters wide, made with a neck-line the size of a Parisian street manhole. Its sleeves brushing the faces of front rows guests, its train extending back three meters.
If anything summed up the wicked sense of fantasy and humor that is Victor Weinsanto, it’s his ability to shock by the zany surrealism of his proportions.
Originally from the world of ballet, Weinsanto debuted the show with a professional dancer pirouetting in a marvelous, largely sheer leotard – almost like pointillist seaweed but made of chains, bugle beads, plastic shards and metal blotches.
Spinning down a short stairway inside Comme des Garçons cultural center in the Marais. Being followed by a high priestess of camp in a black velour body stocking, mega cape and massive halo hat finished with golden threads.
Though hyper theatrical, Weinsanto can also create cool commercial clothes – craftily aged denim parkas, blotchy abstract print stretch cocktails or saucy corsets made in a stucco-like velour.
Underlining Victor Weinsanto’s cult status, a pack of other designers showed up: Jean-Paul Gaultier, Charles de Vilmorin and Rick Owens’ aide de camp, Tyrone Dylan.
“Bravo! Bravo! It’s too good. En plus, you are honest with yourself, and generous. It was beautiful, and it’s great you have been working very, very hard,” enthused Gaultier as he embraced Weinsanto in the backstage.
The show also confirmed that Victor can drape with aplomb. Like the first-rate asymmetrical gown worn by a vamp with two-inch long white nails, a cluster of chokers and witch-worthy black hair. While his deconstructed trench-coats had heads nodding with approval.
Weinsanto enjoyed a huge roar of approval as he took his bow. He is admirably inclusive – in a casting that included transitioning, cross dressing and plus size.
All presented before a beautiful plaster panel by Gérard Pigault - who makes set designs for Dior and other huge houses - specially created of the show’s final bird of paradise corset dress.
Though Weinsanto is a fledgling house, it has already achieved cult status. Hundreds of fans gathered outside and couldn't even make it into the crowded show.
“It’s about everyone having their own goals and dreams. So not one direction, more a spirit of openness,” said the designer, his hair green for the show.
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